The Portuguese Palate

By Jacqueline Dunnington

Portugal, the lovely country at the western edge of the Iberian Peninsula, also includes Madeira and the Azores islands. Its history reaches far into the past when Romans conquered the land in the second century BCE, followed by Visigoths and Moors. In 1143, it became an independent kingdom. During the Age of Exploration, Portuguese mariners sailed to Asia, Africa, and South America, and returned home with exotic spices.

The name "Portugal" comes from an old Latin term Portus Cala (the old name for the city of Oporto). The country is blessed with a climate that favors abundant produce that, in turn, gives inspiration to vegans in creating recipes.

ONION SOUP WITH MADEIRA

(Sopa de cebola à Madeirense)
(Serves 6)

A savory blend of ingredients produces an exotic soup.

  • 2 pounds yellow onions, peeled and slivered
  • 4 Tablespoons olive oil
  • 5 cups vegetable broth or hot water
  • 1/4 cup golden raisins
  • 2 teaspoons paprika
  • 2 Tablespoons finely chopped cilantro
  • Pinch of ground cloves
  • 4 Tablespoons Madeira (white dessert wine)
  • Salt or salt substitute and fresh-cracked black pepper to taste

In a deep soup pot, sauté the onions in oil until they are soft and lightly browned. Add the broth or water, raisins, and all seasonings; cover and simmer about 40 minutes. Stir in the Madeira at the last moment, season to taste, and serve with crusty brown bread.

Total calories per serving: 189 Fat: 10 grams
Carbohydrates: 22 grams Protein: 4 grams
Sodium: 840 milligrams Fiber: 3 grams

RED PEPPER SPREAD

(Massa de pimentáo)
(Yield: about 1 cup; 8 servings)

A vegan adaptation of a poultry marinade. Wonderful on toast or as a veggie dip.

  • 6 large (or 8 medium) red bell peppers, scrubbed, seeded, and slivered
  • 1 Tablespoon salt or salt substitute
  • 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 2 heaping Tablespoons tomato paste (preferably unsalted)
  • 2 Tablespoons olive oil
  • 2 cloves garlic, crushed

In an oven-proof pan, spread the pepper slivers, add the salt and pepper, and cover lightly. Let stand at room temperature for 8-10 hours. Remove the cover, add the tomato paste, and roast at 250-275 degrees for at least one hour, stirring often. Remove from oven and purée in a food processor while adding oil slowly along with crushed garlic.

Cool and serve.

Total calories per 2 TB serving: 68 Fat: 4 grams
Carbohydrates: 9 grams Protein: 1 gram
Sodium: 878 milligrams Fiber: 3 grams

RICE, TOMATO, AND CHICKPEA CASSEROLE

(Arroz de Tomates com Grão)
(Serves 4)

A meal in one dish for family or party dining.

  • 1 cup onion slivers
  • 2 cloves garlic, crushed
  • 4 Tablespoons olive oil
  • 1 cup uncooked brown rice
  • 2 cups hot water (more if needed)
  • 1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley (divided into two portions)
  • 4 large very ripe tomatoes, chopped
  • 1 dried bay leaf, crumbled
  • Salt or salt substitute and pepper to taste
  • 1 teaspoon paprika
  • 1 cup cooked chickpeas, drained

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

In an oven-proof pot, sauté the onions and garlic in oil until golden. Add the rice, water, and half the parsley. Cover and bake for one-half hour at 375 degrees. Add the tomatoes and seasonings. Cover again and bake until done (cooking time varies with rice variety and altitude), but allow at least 30 minutes. If more hot water is needed, add it in small amounts. When the mixture is done to taste, stir in the chickpeas with a fork.

Top with remaining chopped parsley, and serve hot.

Total calories per serving: 416 Fat: 16 grams
Carbohydrates: 61 grams Protein: 9 grams
Sodium: 202 milligrams Fiber: 7 grams

OVEN-BAKED GREEN BEANS WITH CILANTRO

(Feijão verde com coentro)
(Serves 4)

Here's a new approach to cooking green beans.

  • 2 Tablespoons olive oil, divided
  • 1 pound fresh green beans, trimmed and cut lengthwise into thin strips
  • 2 yellow onions, cut in thin strips
  • 4 medium ripe tomatoes, peeled and thinly sliced
  • 1 large (or 2 small) garlic cloves, crushed
  • 1/2 cup finely chopped fresh cilantro
  • Salt or salt substitute and freshly-cracked black pepper to taste
  • 1-2 Tablespoons white wine vinegar
  • Breadcrumbs (optional)

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Oil an oven-proof dish with half of the oil, and layer the beans, onions, tomatoes, garlic, cilantro, salt, and pepper, alternating each ingredient in thirds. Add the remaining oil and 2-3 Tablespoons of hot water. Cover and bake for about half an hour or to taste. (Note: Do not stir!) Uncover and dribble the vinegar across the top of the vegetables. Return to oven, covered. Bake 10 more minutes. Sprinkle with breadcrumbs, if desired, before serving.

Total calories per serving: 144 Fat: 7 grams
Carbohydrates: 19 grams Protein: 4 grams
Sodium: 21 milligrams Fiber: 6 grams

KETTLE OF GREENS

(Caldo verde)
(Serves 4)

This national culinary treasure is served everywhere in Portugal.

  • 1 very large (or 2 medium) yellow onion, shredded
  • 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
  • 3 Tablespoons olive oil, divided
  • 4 medium-sized white boiling potatoes, sliced but not peeled
  • 1 quart water
  • 1/2 cup each: shredded green cabbage, turnip leaves, and kale leaves
  • Salt or salt substitute to taste
  • Pepper to taste

Sauté the onion and garlic in half of the oil in a large pot until the onions are translucent. Add po-tatoes and cook 5-6 minutes until pliant, stirring often. Add water. Boil until the potatoes are soft. Remove pot from heat. Mash contents with fork while still in water.

Add the greens and simmer, uncovered, for 7-8 minutes. Add the remaining oil along with salt and pepper. Stir before serving in large soup bowls.

This is considered a main course; always serve with hearty bread.

Total calories per serving: 217 Fat: 10 grams
Carbohydrates: 29 grams Protein: 4 grams
Sodium: 17 milligrams Fiber: 4 grams

PINEAPPLE AND STRAWBERRIES IN PORT

(Ananás com morangos em Porto)
(Serves 4)

An out-of-the-ordinary fruit dessert that pleases the eye and palate.

  • 1 ripe pineapple, about 3 pounds, peeled, cored, and cut into small wedges
  • 2 pints fresh strawberries, washed, stems removed, and quartered
  • 1/4 cup ruby-red port
  • Pinch of ground cinnamon
  • 1/2 teaspoon lemon zest
  • 1 heaping Tablespoon rice syrup

In a glass or ceramic bowl, mix all the ingredients. Chill for several hours before serving.

Total calories per serving: 245 Fat: 2 grams
Carbohydrates: 57 grams Protein: 2 grams
Sodium: 6 milligrams Fiber: 7 grams

Jacqueline Dunnington is a freelance writer from Santa Fe, NM, and a regular contributor to Vegetarian Journal.