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Lots of people are unfamiliar with how to prepare them, especially how to cook the more mature greens, like collards and kale, so they are not bitter. Once the basics of cooking greens are demystified and you see the results of including them in your diet, you’ll want them to make a regular appearance at your dining table.
First you need to prepare the greens. Remove large stems or break off small ones. Fill a sink with cold water and submerge the leaves. With herbs, leave the stems and hold on to them as you give the leaves a dunk. If there is sediment in the water, drain the sink and repeat. If you plan to put the greens in a salad, spin them dry. Leaves destined for cooking can have excess water shaken off and be placed on a towel or chopping board.
The issue at hand is how to cook the greens so they lose as little nutritional value as possible while shedding their bitter flavors. There are three cooking techniques that I like to use when cooking the more mature, bitter greens: quick-boiling, simmering, and sautéeing.
To quick-boil greens, bring two quarts of water to a boil. Do not chop the leaves, but submerge them whole into the boiling water. Use a wooden spoon to move them from top to bottom. To tell when they are done, use your senses. The leaves should begin to lose their perkiness and wilt slightly, but the bright green color will still be present. At this point, bring a leaf up with your spoon, tear off a piece, and chew it. If the flavor is bitter, let them cook more. The greens are just right when chewing a piece releases sweet juices in your mouth. If the color is gone or there is no flavor left when you chew it, they’ve cooked too long. The amount of time depends on the maturity of the green and the amount of leaves you’re cooking. For something like tender mustard greens, it should be a thirty- to sixty-second dip, while mature collard greens can take about five minutes. Once you test the green and get a sweet flavor, pour the contents of the pot into a colander. Save the water, which is called pot-likker. Many cooks like to drink this nutrient-filled broth, but I like to use it to water my plants. Gently run cool water over the greens to halt cooking. Once they are cool enough to touch, gather them into a ball and gently squeeze out the excess water. Chop them on the cutting board and they are ready to dress and serve.
To simmer greens, bring about one inch of liquid (water, broth, wine . . .) to simmer in a large skillet. Chop the washed greens into strips. Place the strips in the simmering liquid and keep them moving with a wooden spoon. You are looking for the same results as described above: a bright green color and a sweet flavor; but since the greens have been chopped, the cooking time will be shorter.
When sautéeing greens, it is good to work with just-washed greens. The water helps with wilting and releasing bitterness. Heat 1-2 Tablespoons of oil in a skillet. Add a minced clove of garlic if desired. The garlic will tell you if you have the heat right. Too hot and the garlic will burn, too cool and the garlic will just sit there. If there is too much water on the greens or the oil is too hot, the oil will sputter, so take care. Chop the greens you are using into bite-sized pieces. Stacking the washed leaves is an easy way to make efficient, uniform cuts. Place cut leaves in the skillet and keep them moving. Stay with the process and test every minute or so for doneness. When the leaves are still full of color and tasting proves not bitter, but sweet, they’re ready!
Following are some of my favorite greens recipes. I’ve included recipes that exemplify various preparation techniques , using greens raw and cooked. Another easy way to include greens in your meal is to take a less bitter green like chard or watercress and let it steam on top of an already prepared dish, as described in the Szechwan Tempeh with Swiss Chard recipe. Whatever way you choose to use them, let these superheroes rescue your next meal from the nutritional doldrums. Don’t be fooled by an antacid tablet claiming it’s your best source of calcium. Look! It’s a Vitamin C pill! It’s a digestive aid! No. It’s Captain Dark Leafy Green, ready to help you engage your warp drive and go!
WATERCRESS SALAD WITH CREAMY GINGER DRESSING
(Serves 6; makes 3/4 cup dressing)
This salad is quick, light, and nutritious. Watercress is rich in minerals and is usually free of pesticides, as it grows easily and abundantly. The ginger salad dressing is a favorite of mine.
Salad:
1 bunch watercress, tough stems removed
1/2 head red leaf lettuce
1 cucumber, thinly sliced
Dressing:
2 Tablespoons chopped ginger
2 teaspoons chopped celery
1/2 teaspoon maple syrup
6 Tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
3 Tablespoons toasted sesame seeds
1/8 teaspoon white pepper
1/8 teaspoon celery seed
1/2 teaspoon catsup
3 Tablespoons soy sauce
3 Tablespoons brown rice vinegar
3 Tablespoons water
Wash watercress and lettuce by placing leaves in a sink full of cold water. Drain and repeat. Spin or pat dry. Tear greens into bite-sized pieces and place in a large salad bowl. Add cucumber and set aside. Place ginger, celery, maple syrup, oil, sesame seeds, pepper, celery seed, and catsup in a blender and blend. Add soy sauce, vinegar, and water; blend again until creamy. Before serving, toss salad with 1/4-1/3 cup of the dressing. The remainder of the dressing will keep in the refrigerator for at least a week.
TOFU-KALE-MUSTARD-DILL SUPPER PIE
(Makes 8 slices)
This recipe is an adaptation of the tofu quiche found in Annemarie Colbin’s book The Natural Gour-met. This version utilizes super-nu-tritious kale and carrots. Umeboshi vinegar, made from umeboshi plums, gives a sour-salty zip to the filling. Equal amounts of lemon and salt can be substituted. This dish is a perfect combination of grains, beans, and vegetables. Serve with a salad of wild greens for a super-green meal.
Crust:
2 cups whole wheat pastry flour
1/3 cup cold-pressed vegetable oil
1/3 cup water
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
Filling:
2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 onion, chopped
Pinch of sea salt
2 carrots, thinly sliced into half moons
1 bunch kale leaves, about 1 pound, stems
cut away
1 pound firm tofu
1 Tablespoon umeboshi vinegar
1 Tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 Tablespoon mustard
2 teaspoons tamari or shoyu
1/2 teaspoon dried dill or 11/2 teaspoons
fresh dill
To make crust:
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Put flour in a bowl. In a separate bowl, whisk oil, water, and salt together.
Slowly pour liquid into flour, blending with a fork. Gather dough into a ball; it should be moist and pliable. Roll out into
a crust on a floured surface or a piece of waxed paper. Transfer to an 8- or 9-inch pie pan. Trim edges. Prebake for 10 minutes in the oven.
To make filling:
Heat 2 tsp oil in a large skillet. Add onion, salt, and carrots; sauté until onion is soft. Set aside. Wash kale leaves and
remove stems. Stack several kale leaves on top of one another and roll up. Cut into very thin strips. Repeat until all kale
is cut. Add to the onion mixture and sauté until kale begins to wilt but retains its rich green color. Set aside. Blend the
tofu, vinegar, 1 Tbsp oil, mustard, tamari, and dill in a blender or food processor until smooth. Since firm tofu can make
this very thick, you may need to add a little water.
To assemble pie:
Layer the blended tofu mixture, then the sautéed vegetables, ending with tofu in the prebaked crust. Bake at 350 degrees
for 30 minutes, until the top of the pie begins to turn beige at the edges. Remove from heat and let rest 10-20 minutes.
Cut and serve.
BOK CHOY AND BUCKWHEAT NOODLES IN GARLIC GINGER BROTH YAKI-SOBA
(Serves 4)
This traditional Japanese dish (pictured on the front cover) makes a quick, healthy family meal. Soba is a hearty noodle made from buckwheat and wheat flour and can be found in natural foods stores and Asian markets. Bok choy is a beautiful vegetable that has big dark green leaves with a thick white stem.
8-ounce package soba noodles
2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil
1 onion, cut in thin half moons
2-3 cloves garlic, minced
1 carrot, cut into matchsticks
5 shiitake mushrooms, cut into bite-size
pieces
2 cups chopped bok choy, leaves and stems
4 cups water
1/3 cup tamari or shoyu
1/2 pound firm tofu, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 Tablespoon freshly grated gingerroot
2 scallions, cut into thin slices
Prepare soba noodles according to package directions. Drain and set aside. Heat oil in a 4-quart soup pot. Add onion and garlic; sauté over medium heat until onion begins to soften. Add carrot and mushroom pieces; sauté a few minutes more. Add bok choy, water, tamari, tofu, and gingerroot. Bring heat up until mixture begins to simmer. Cover and simmer for 10 minutes. Serve this dish by placing a handful of noodles in each serving dish. Ladle broth and vegetables over the noodles. Garnish with scallions.
SZECHWAN TEMPEH WITH SWISS CHARD
(Serves 3)
This is one of my favorite quick meals. The sweet and salty qualities of Szechwan Tempeh are nicely balanced by serving it atop some basmati brown rice or quinoa.
1/4 cup cold-pressed, high oleic safflower oil
8-ounce package tempeh, cut into 1/4-inch
strips
2 Tablespoons white miso
1/4 cup water
2 Tablespoons tamari or shoyu
2 Tablespoons mirin
2 Tablespoons balsamic vinegar
2 Tablespoons brown rice syrup
2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil or hot
pepper oil
1 bunch Swiss chard (about 1 pound)
Heat 2 Tablespoons of the safflower oil in a 10-inch skillet. Place half of the tempeh strips in the skillet and let them quick-fry, turning them so that both sides brown. Remove fried tempeh onto a paper towel and repeat the process with the other half of the tempeh strips. In a small bowl, mix miso and water together with a whisk until the miso is dissolved. Add the tamari, mirin, vinegar, syrup, and sesame oil to the miso mixture and whisk again. Lower heat on skillet. Place fried tempeh back in the skillet and pour sauce over the top. Wash chard leaves carefully. An easy way is to fill your sink with cold water and submerge the greens. If the water has sediment, drain the sink and repeat. Cut away thick stems or ends. Shake off excess water from leaves and stack. Make vertical cuts across the leaves, chopping them into strips. Place chard strips on top of gently simmering tempeh. Cover skillet with a lid. Heat until chard is bright green and slightly wilted and Szechwan sauce begins to thicken. Remove from heat and serve immediately.
HIZIKI PÂTÉ
(Makes 21/2-3 cups, about 9 servings)
Hiziki, of all the sea vegetables, is the richest in calcium. By combining it with dark green parsley and sesame seeds, you create a mineral-laden delicacy. The strong “sea” taste can be moderated by cooking hiziki in apple juice and by combining it with other vegetables. I have seen two-year-olds, as well as adults, gobble this pâté up with glee.
1 cup hiziki, dry
1-11/2 cups water or apple juice
1 Tablespoon tamari or shoyu
1/4 cup sesame seeds, toasted, then ground
1/2 pound firm tofu, crumbled with a fork
2 Tablespoons white or mellow miso
1/2 bunch parsley, finely chopped
2 scallions, thinly sliced
Soak hiziki in water for 5 minutes and chop finely. Put hiziki in a medium-sized pan and add water or apple juice to cover; bring to simmer. Cover pan and cook until juice is absorbed, about 20 minutes. Toward the end of the cooking time, season hiziki with tamari. While hiziki is cooking, prepare other ingredients. Sesame seeds can be toasted in a skillet on the stove for 5-8 minutes, then ground. Gently mix tofu, sesame seeds, miso, parsley, and scallions together in a bowl. Let the hiziki cool and then add to the mixture. For a more puréed texture, put mixture in a food processor and pulse a few times. Serve with whole grain crackers or bread, or as a side dish. This pâté will keep 3 days in the refrigerator.
GOLDEN POTATO AND COLLARD GREEN SOUP
(Serves 6)
A smooth way to enjoy the goodness of collards. Broccoli rabe also works well in this recipe. Serve this creamy non-dairy soup with grilled tofu sandwiches. This is a simple feast for a hungry family.
1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil
4 cups chopped onions (about 2 large or 3
medium onions)
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
2 cups diced potatoes (about 2 medium
potatoes)
1/2 cup chopped celery (about 2 ribs)
1 large carrot, diced
31/2-4 cups water
2 Tablespoons cashew butter
2 Tablespoons tamari or shoyu
1 bunch collard greens
1 teaspoon brown rice vinegar
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper
Heat oil in a 3-quart pot. Add the onions and salt. Cover and simmer on low heat, stirring occasionally, until onions cook down to a nice mush (about 15-20 minutes). Add potatoes, celery, carrot, and water to the onion mush; cover and simmer until potatoes are soft (about 15-20 minutes). Put soup mixture into a blender with the cashew butter and tamari. Blend until smooth. Run the soup through a strainer to remove celery strings. Return soup to pot. Remove thick stems from the collard leaves by pulling leaf off with one hand while holding onto the stem with the other. Fill your sink with cold water and submerge the collard leaves. If the water has sediment, drain the sink and repeat. Bring 2 quarts of water to a boil. Submerge leaves. Remove a piece and test every minute or so. You are looking for a slightly wilted leaf that still has a bright green color and (most important) a succulent, sweet flavor. Pour cooked greens into a colander in the sink. When you can handle them, squeeze out excess water with your hands. Clip into bite-sized pieces or thin strips and stir into soup. Add vinegar. Taste soup, and adjust salt and pepper. Gently heat before serving.
Excerpts from the May/June 2001 Issue
The Vegetarian Journal published here is not the complete issue, but these are excerpts from the published magazine. Anyone wanting to see everything should subscribe to the magazine.
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| Last Updated April 20, 2001 |
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