Vegetarian Pies

By Habeeb Salloum

Delicate, flavorful, and very satisfying are the descriptions with which a number of culinary experts label the countless pies or turnovers found in every country on earth. It is said that if all snack foods were ranked in order, these would, without question, lead the list. Filled with an infinite variety of stuffing combinations, they are delicious, nutritious, and simple to prepare.

I will always remember the aroma flowing out of the kitchen when, as a child returning from school, I opened the door to our home. The mouth-watering smell of vegetarian pies baking in the oven would increase my hunger pangs a hundredfold. No matter what type of pie mother was making that day, the smell from the kitchen would always ensnare me in its bewitching culinary web.

My mother seemed to have a never-ending storehouse of ideas for new types of pies. This was especially true in summer and autumn when our garden overflowed with vegetables. For lunch, snacks, or main courses, they were always delicious and memorable. These memories have always lingered with me. For many years, I have never tired of replicating my mother's pies and developing numerous other versions.

These pies are always to be found on the daily menu. For school lunches, snacks at home, or a meal carried by one spouse to another working the fields, pies — especially spinach pies — are usually included. When leaving their homelands for other countries — like our family — emigrants from the Middle East never forget their pies, especially those freshly baked, perfuming the home with their seductive pungency.

In that part of world, they are often offered as a savory and appetizing fast food. People enjoy munching on them on the streets. The first thing I do when I reach Damascus, Beirut, or any other urban center in the Middle East, is search for a bakery — and there are many — diffusing the tempting fragrance of its pies in the path of passersby.

Traditionally, most pies are stuffed with meats or a combination of vegetables and meats. Only a few, like cheese or spinach pies, are usually made with non-meat fillings. On the other hand, besides cheese and spinach, more innovative cooks, like my mother, throughout the Middle East have replaced the meats with nuts and almost every kind of vegetable. In the process they have created a great number of appetizing and succulent vegetarian pies.

These can be made very small, medium size, or large enough for a one-person meal. The petite and medium versions can be served as appetizers, for snacks, as part of buffet meals, or as supplements to soups and salads. King-size and baked, they make a delectable and filling all-in-one entrée. Also excellent for lunches and as picnic fare, they add much to the culinary world of sandwich-type foods.

Vegetarian pies can be stuffed with a never-ending variety of non-meat ingredients, and most are simple to prepare. They can be made in advance and frozen, then removed and allowed to thaw half an hour before being baked. They are very delightful when served hot and they lose only a little of their mouth-watering flavor if eaten cold.

The following vegetarian pies are some of the ones mother used to bake and a number which are my own creations.

DOUGH FOR PIES
(Makes enough dough for 10 pies)

1 Tablespoon granulated sweetener
1 package dry yeast
1 cup lukewarm water, divided
3 cups flour (half whole wheat flour and half unbleached white flour)
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon ground ginger
4 Tablespoons olive oil

Dissolve sweetener and yeast in 1/4 cup lukewarm water, then allow to stand until yeast begins to froth.

In the meantime, combine flour, salt, and ginger in a mixing bowl, then make a well in the middle. Add yeast mixture, remaining water, and oil. Knead into a dough, adding more flour or water if necessary (do not allow the dough to become sticky). Shape into a ball, then brush the outside with a few drops of oil. Place on a floured tray or pan and cover with a damp cloth. Allow to rest in a warm spot until it becomes double in size (about 40 minutes).

Note: An equal amount of frozen bread dough will serve just as well for all the following recipes.

Total calories per pie dough: 190 Fat: 6 grams
Carbohydrates: 30 grams Protein: 4 grams
Sodium: 115 milligrams Fiber: 1 gram

SPINACH PIES
(Makes 10 pies)

Spinach pies are the most commonly made pies in the Middle East. They are found on the menu of almost every feast.

1 dough recipe
One 10-ounce package raw spinach, thoroughly washed and finely chopped
2 medium onions, chopped
3 Tablespoons pine nuts or slivered almonds
2 Tablespoons olive oil
2 Tablespoons lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
1/8 teaspoon cayenne

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Prepare dough for pies, then set aside.

When dough has risen, form into 10 balls and place on a floured tray. Cover with a damp cloth and allow to stand in a warm place for 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, prepare filling by thoroughly combining all ingredients.

Roll balls into 6-inch rounds, then divide the filling and place it on each round, stirring the filling each time. (Preferably the filling should be divided into 10 equal parts.) Fold dough over the filling, then close by firmly pinching edges together into a triangle or half moon shape.

Place pies on well-greased baking trays, then bake in a 350-degree oven for 20-25 minutes or until pies turn golden brown. Remove from the oven and brush with olive oil. Serve hot or cold.

Total calories per pie: 241 Fat: 9 grams
Carbohydrates: 33 grams Protein: 6 grams
Sodium: 254 milligrams Fiber: 2 grams

LEEK PIES
(Makes 10 pies)

Leeks, rarely used in North America, make a succulent pie.

1 dough recipe
4 heaping cups of thoroughly washed and chopped leeks
4 medium onions, chopped
4 cloves garlic, crushed
1 small hot pepper, very finely chopped
2 Tablespoons sumac*
2 Tablespoons finely chopped fresh coriander leaves (cilantro)
2 Tablespoons olive oil
1/4 cup lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Prepare dough for pies, then set aside.

When dough has risen, form into 10 balls and place on a floured tray. Cover with a damp cloth and allow to stand in a warm place for 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, prepare filling by thoroughly combining all ingredients.

Roll balls into 6-inch rounds, and follow the spinach pies recipe on the previous page to form and bake the leek pies.

*Note: Sumac can be purchased in Middle Eastern food markets. It's also available from Penzeys via mail order at <www.Penzeys.com>.

Total calories per pie: 263 Fat: 8 grams
Carbohydrates: 42 grams Protein: 6 grams
Sodium: 243 milligrams Fiber: 3 grams

Note: Analysis does not include sumac.

PEA AND ZUCCHINI PIES
(Makes 10 pies)

Enjoy the delicious blend of vegetables, nuts, and seasonings in this pie filling.

1 dough recipe
2-1/2 cups 1/4-inch cubes of unpeeled zucchini
1-1/2 cups fresh or thawed frozen peas
1 large onion, finely chopped
4 cloves garlic, crushed
4 Tablespoons ground almonds
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon oregano
1/2 teaspoon pepper
1/2 teaspoon paprika
1/4 teaspoon cayenne

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Prepare dough for pies, then set aside.

When dough has risen, form into 10 balls and place on a floured tray. Cover with a damp cloth and allow to stand in a warm place for 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, prepare filling by thoroughly combining all ingredients.

Roll balls into 6-inch rounds, and follow the spinach pies recipe on the previous page to form and bake the pea and zucchini pies.

Total calories per pie: 236 Fat: 7 grams
Carbohydrates: 36 grams Protein: 6 grams
Sodium: 232 milligrams Fiber: 3 grams

MUSHROOM PIES
(Makes 10 pies)

You can experiment with different varieties of mushrooms in this recipe.

1 dough recipe
4 cups thinly sliced mushrooms, thoroughly washed
1-1/2 cups chopped green onions
1 medium sweet green pepper, finely chopped
1/4 cup finely chopped parsley
2 cloves garlic, crushed
2 Tablespoons olive oil
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon marjoram
1/2 teaspoon pepper
1/4 teaspoon cayenne

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Prepare dough for pies, then set aside.

When dough has risen, form into 10 balls and place on a floured tray. Cover with a damp cloth and allow to stand in a warm place for 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, prepare filling by thoroughly combining all ingredients.

Roll balls into 6-inch rounds, and follow the spinach pies recipe on the previous page to form and bake the mushroom pies.

Total calories per pie: 312 Fat: 10 grams
Carbohydrates: 49 grams Protein: 12 grams
Sodium: 246 milligrams Fiber: 7 grams

High in iron.

CORN PIES
(Makes 10 pies)

This is one of my own creations.

1 dough recipe
2 Tablespoons olive oil
1 medium sweet pepper, finely chopped
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1 small hot pepper, finely chopped
4 cloves garlic, crushed
4-1/2 cups fresh or thawed frozen corn
1/2 cup finely chopped parsley
1/2 teaspoon each salt and pepper
1/2 teaspoon powdered mustard
1/2 teaspoon cumin

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Prepare dough for pies, then set aside.

When dough has risen, form into 10 balls and place on a floured tray. Cover with a damp cloth and allow to stand in a warm place for 30 minutes.

In the meantime, heat oil in a frying pan, then sauté sweet pepper, onion, hot pepper, and garlic over medium heat for 5 minutes. Add corn, then stir-fry for another 5 minutes. To make the filling, stir in remaining ingredients, then remove from heat and allow to cool.

Roll balls into 6-inch rounds, and follow the spinach pies recipe on the previous page to form and bake the corn pies.

Total calories per pie: 295 Fat: 9 grams
Carbohydrates: 33 grams Protein: 7 grams
Sodium: 236 milligrams Fiber: 4 grams

LENTIL PIES
(Makes 10 pies)

These pies are delicious.

1 dough recipe
1 cup lentils, rinsed
4 cups water
2 medium onions, finely chopped
4 cloves garlic, crushed
1 small hot pepper, very finely chopped
4 Tablespoons tomato paste
2 Tablespoons olive oil
4 Tablespoons lemon juice
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
1/2 teaspoon cumin

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Pre-pare dough for pies, then set aside.

When dough has risen, form into 10 balls and place on a floured tray. Cover with a damp cloth and allow to stand in a warm place for 30 minutes.

In the meantime, place lentils and water in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Cover, then simmer over medium heat for 40 minutes or un-til the lentils are soft. Drain lentils and allow to cool. Mash lentils and combine with the remaining ingredients to make a filling.

Roll balls into 6-inch rounds, and bake lentil pies.

Total calories per pie: 283 Fat: 8 grams
Carbohydrates: 43 grams Protein: 9 grams
Sodium: 250 milligrams Fiber: 4 grams

THYME AND SUMAC PIES
(Makes 10 pies)

In the Greater Syria area of the Middle East, this is a favored breakfast dish, eaten piping hot.

1 dough recipe
1/4 cup olive oil
3 Tablespoons thyme
3 Tablespoons sumac
2 Tablespoons sesame seeds
1 teaspoon marjoram
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon cayenne

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Pre-pare dough for pies, then set aside.

When dough has risen, form into 10 balls and place on a floured tray. Cover with a damp cloth and allow to stand in a warm place for 30 minutes.

In the meantime, thoroughly mix all remaining ingredients, then set aside.

Roll balls into 1/8-inch thick rounds, then place on a well greased cookie tray. Spread the mixed ingredients evenly over top of rounds, press down, then bake in a 350 degree oven for 15 minutes or until edges of pies turn light brown. Serve hot or cold.

Total calories per pie: 249 Fat: 12 grams
Carbohydrates: 31 grams Protein: 4 grams
Sodium: 173 milligrams Fiber: 2 grams

Note: Analysis does not include sumac.

CHICKPEA PIES
(Makes 10 pies)

Often prepared by my mother, chickpea pies are believed to have been eaten by the peasants in the Middle East since pre-Roman times.

1 dough recipe
2 Tablespoons olive oil
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
1 cup chickpeas, soaked overnight, drained, and cooked

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Pre-pare dough for pies, then set aside.

When dough has risen, form into 10 balls and place on a floured tray. Cover with a damp cloth and allow to stand in a warm place for 30 minutes.

In the meantime, combine remaining ingredients, then set aside.

Roll balls into 1/8-inch thick rounds, then place on a well greased cookie tray. Stir chickpea mixture, then press firmly into the dough, a handful of chickpeas on each pie.

Bake in a 350 degree oven for 15 minutes or until edges of pies turn light brown. Place under broiler until top browns, then serve hot.

Total calories per pie: 321 Fat: 13 grams
Carbohydrates: 43 grams Protein: 9 grams
Sodium: 400 milligrams Fiber: 5 grams

Habeeb Salloum resides in Canada. Thanks to Jim and Maggie Dunn for producing the photos in this article.