BEET IT!

By Debra Daniels-Zeller

Though most people have only experienced canned pickled beets, nothing compares to the taste of a fresh beet — cooked or raw! Available year-round, the best time for beets is June through November. They contain significant amounts of iron, magnesium, and phosphorus. During the peak season the leaves are very tender, mild, and slightly sweet. Baby beets, which appear early in the season, are delicately sweet and can convert anyone who isn't already a beet fan.

Related to chard, spinach, and quinoa, beets belong to the goosefoot family, whose triangular leaves resemble a webbed goose foot or sometimes look more like an arrowhead. Native to Europe and North Africa, they probably originated in the Mediterranean area where they grew wild and the leaves were harvested for food. Up until the 16th century, beet roots were primarily used for medicinal purposes. And it really wasn't until the 1800s that growing beets as a vegetable gained popularity in Europe. Even then, most farmers continued to grow them primarily for their greens. In 1828 in her book, Directions for Cookery, Eliza Leslie gave the first written directions for preparing beet roots.

Red, golden, and Chioggia beets are the three basic types you can find. Golden and Chioggia beets can more often be found at farmers' markets in the summer and early fall. Golden beets hold their color well, and Chioggia beets are red-orange to light red with the flesh ringed by red and white bands. Both have a milder flavor than red beets. When selecting beets, look for firm, smooth-skinned beets with no wrinkles. Ideally, select the ones with leaves attached — a sign of freshness. The leaves should look fresh and have a deep green color. Beets will store for up to two weeks in the refrigerator. The greens will keep for one week.

Beets can be baked, roasted with a bit of oil, or steamed and added to your favorite dishes. They can be eaten whole, chunked, or puréed into interesting main and side dishes. They can be juiced and mixed with other veggie juices. They can also be grated raw and added to salads. The greens can be used in any recipe that calls for collards, kale, chard, or spinach, and young, tender greens can be torn and tossed in with other salad greens.

The recipes below are just a sampling of ideas for what to do with beets. Savory or sweet, nothing beats a beet!

ORANGE BEET PURÉE
(Serves 4)

The sweetness of beets is paired here with orange juice and zest to make a delicious, naturally sweet side dish. Garnish with walnuts for special occasions.

6 medium beets, washed and scrubbed
1 orange (watch for chemical- or wax-treated peels)
1/2 Tablespoon lemon juice
1/4 cup currants or raisins
2 Tablespoons finely chopped toasted walnuts (optional)

Slice beets about 1/4 inch thick. Steam until very tender — about 10 to 15 minutes. Zest (grate) the outer peel of orange. Juice the orange, and then combine orange juice and zest, lemon juice, and cooked beets in a food processor or blender and purée until smooth. Remove purée from processor and blend in currants or raisins by hand. Top with toasted, chopped walnuts, if desired.

Total calories per serving: 108 Fat: 2 grams
Carbohydrates: 21 grams Protein: 3 grams
Sodium: 98 milligrams Fiber: 4 grams

SAVORY BAKED BEETS WITH HORSERADISH SAUCE
(Serves 6)

Beautiful, brilliant purple beets make a good substitute for baked potatoes. Children might prefer them plain, but I like them drizzled with this spicy horseradish sauce. I use bottled horseradish, which you can find in the deli section of your grocery store, or use fresh grated horseradish if you prefer. If you make the sauce a day ahead, the flavors will have a chance to marry and they will be more prominent.

6 fresh beets, washed and scrubbed
1/3 cup vegetable stock or water

Place whole beets in a baking dish. Add stock or water, cover, and bake at 350 degrees for 1 hour or until tender.

Horseradish Sauce (Makes 1 1/4 cups)

1 cup silken tofu
Juice of 1 lemon
2 teaspoons lemon zest (outer peel of organic lemon)
1 Tablespoon Dijon mustard
2 to 3 teaspoons horseradish
1 Tablespoon Sucanat or organic sugar
1/2 Tablespoon canola oil

Blend all ingredients in a blender. Serve over baked or roasted beets.

(beets with sauce):

Total calories per serving: 82 Fat: 2 grams
Carbohydrates: 12 grams Protein: 4 grams
Sodium: 145 milligrams Fiber: 2 grams

ROASTED ROSEMARY BEETS
(Serves 6)

When beets are roasted, the sugar in them caramelizes, making them even sweeter. Here, beets are well matched with rosemary for a different savory side dish. The horseradish sauce from the previous recipe is also excellent with these beets.

6 large beets
1 Tablespoon canola or olive oil
1 teaspoon dried rosemary
Salt and pepper to taste

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Wash and cut beets into cubes. (You can bake them whole, but this increases the baking time to 1 hour.) Combine beets, oil, and rosemary, blending well. Place in a baking dish in the oven and roast uncovered for 45 minutes or until done. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

(beets with sauce):

Total calories per serving: 101 Fat: 4 grams
Carbohydrates: 12 grams Protein: 3 grams
Sodium: 130 milligrams Fiber: 2 grams

Hint: I often bake other vegetables at the same time in the same dish. I do not mix the vegetables because the beets will turn everything purple, but beets baked with purple potatoes and red onions are an excellent combination.

CREAMY BEET GREEN CHOWDER
(Serves 6)

A good source of vitamin A, folic acid, vitamin E, and calcium, beet greens make a delicious creamy chowder. I like to serve this soup with a hunk of crusty Italian bread or some warm cornbread. If you can't find fresh basil, try using cilantro instead.

1/2 Tablespoon canola or olive oil
1 large onion, chopped
2 stalks celery, chopped
1/2 teaspoon crushed pepper flakes
6 to 10 cloves garlic, minced or pressed
5 cups water
2 medium potatoes, peeled and cut into small pieces
1 bunch beet greens
2 cups sliced mushrooms
1/2 cup chopped, fresh basil
Salt and pepper to taste
Parsley or broccoli sprouts to garnish

In the bottom of a large soup pot, sauté the onion in oil until soft. Add celery, pepper flakes, and garlic (10 cloves for true garlic lovers!). Sauté until vegetables are slightly tender.

Add the water and the potatoes. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer until potatoes are tender — about 15 minutes. Add greens and cook until wilted — approximately another 10 minutes.

Purée the mixture in a blender, 2 cups at a time, until all is puréed. Return to pot and add mushrooms and basil. Cook for another 15 minutes or until the mushrooms are soft. Add salt and pepper to taste. Garnish with parsley or sprouts and serve.

Note: If you want a soup with a higher protein content, substitute 2 cups soymilk for 2 cups of the water.

Total calories per serving: 89 Fat: 2 grams
Carbohydrates: 17 grams Protein: 3 grams
Sodium: 124 milligrams Fiber: 4 grams

SPICY SESAME BEETS AND GREENS WITH JASMINE RICE
(Serves 4)

The sweetness of jasmine rice and the nutty flavor of sesame seeds balance the earthy flavor of beets and greens in this recipe. Jasmine rice, a delicate sweet and slightly sticky white rice, can usually be found in the Asian or natural foods section of your grocery store. If you can't find it, try Basmati rice. (Use the same ratio of water to rice as specified below, but after the second boil, cover and simmer for 50 minutes instead of 15.)

1 bunch beets and greens
1 3/4 cups water
1 cup Jasmine rice
Pinch of salt
1/2 Tablespoon light sesame or canola oil
1 large onion, chopped
5 cloves garlic, minced
1/4 cup water
2 Tablespoons lemon juice
2 1/2 teaspoons tamari or soy sauce
1 teaspoon hot pepper dark sesame oil (available at Asian food stores)
1 or 2 Tablespoons toasted sesame seeds (see Note at end of recipe)

Separate beets and greens and wash and scrub them all thoroughly. Slice beets about 1/4-inch thick. Slice stems about 1/2-inch in length. Cut the leaves on the diagonal in about 1-inch lengths. Set aside.

In a medium saucepan, bring water to a boil. Add Jasmine rice and the salt. Bring to a second boil. Reduce heat, cover, and cook on low for 15 minutes. Do not stir. If water is not absorbed after 15 minutes, remove lid and continue cooking. When done, remove from heat. After 5 minutes, fluff with fork.

While the rice cooks, heat a heavy skillet over medium heat. Add the oil and onion. Stir, reduce heat, cover, and sweat the chopped onion until it is transparent. Add the garlic, stir, and continue to cook for another minute. Add the sliced beets, stems, and 1/4 cup water. Stir, cover, and cook until beets are tender — approximately 7 minutes.

While beets cook, combine lemon juice, tamari, and hot pepper sesame oil. When the beets are nearly done, add greens and cook until wilted — about 3 minutes. Remove from heat. Gently toss with lemon-tamari mixture, blending well. Serve over hot Jasmine rice and top with toasted sesame seeds.

Note: To toast sesame seeds, heat a heavy skillet over medium heat. Add seeds, stir, and cook until seeds are about two shades darker. They will have a nutty aroma.

Total calories per serving: 295 Fat: 5 grams
Carbohydrates: 56 grams Protein: 8 grams
Sodium: 470 milligrams Fiber: 8 grams

SMOKY TEMPEH WITH BEETS AND WILTED GREENS OVER PASTA
(Serves 4)

Sweet beets and sweet red onions are blended with tempeh strips in this easy recipe. Smoky Tempeh strips are available in natural foods stores. If you can't find them, use about 3 ounces of block tempeh, cut into cubes and sautéed. Then add 1/2 to 1 teaspoon liquid smoke (hickory smoke infused with water, available at natural foods stores) to the apple cider vinegar mixture in this recipe for a smoky flavor.

1 bunch beets and greens
10 to 12 ounces pasta spirals or shells
1-1/2 Tablespoons olive or canola oil
1 medium red onion, cut in half, then sliced into slivers
3 Smoky Tempeh strips, cut into 1-inch strips
2 Tablespoons apple cider vinegar
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
2 cloves garlic, pressed
1/2 teaspoon granulated sweetener
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Separate beets and greens. Wash and scrub thoroughly. Cut beets into 1/4-inch slices and steam for 5 to 7 minutes or until fork-tender. Set aside. Cut stems into 1/2-inch slices. Hold leaves and slice diagonally into 1-inch lengths. Set aside.

Cook pasta according to package directions. While the pasta cooks, prepare the rest of the ingredients. Drain pasta and place in serving bowls.

Heat a heavy skillet over medium heat. Add the oil, onions, and tempeh. Stir, lower heat, cover, and cook for 3 to 5 minutes or until onions are crisp but tender. Add beet stems, stir, and cook for a few more minutes. Add leaves, cover, and cook until wilted — another 5 minutes. Stir in the steamed beets. When the leaves are fairly wilted and soft, remove skillet from heat.

Combine apple cider vinegar, mustard, garlic, and sweetener in a small bowl. Blend the steamed beets, greens, onions, and tempeh with the apple cider vinegar mixture. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground pepper. Serve over hot pasta.

Total calories per serving: 156 Fat: 7 grams
Carbohydrates: 19 grams Protein: 8 grams
Sodium: 292 milligrams Fiber: 8 grams

BALSAMIC-BASIL PICKLED BEETS
(Serves 4)

Served as a side dish, on top of a salad, over steaming whole grains, or as a snack, these beets are hard to resist. I like to invest in a good quality balsamic vinegar — preferably one from Italy that has been aged for a number of years. The burst of flavor with every bite is well worth the added expense you pay for the quality. If you can't find basil, these beets are great with the balsamic vinegar flavor alone. This dish will keep for a week or longer in the refrigerator.

2 cups cut-up beets (about 1 pound)
5 Tablespoons balsamic vinegar
1/2 cup water
1 teaspoon granulated sweetener
1 to 2 cloves garlic, pressed
1/4 cup fresh, chopped basil

Slice, dice, chunk, grate, or julienne the beets. Steam until done but not overcooked. (How long you steam them depends on how they are cut. Grated beets only take a few minutes, while sliced beets may take 10 minutes).

While beets steam, combine the balsamic vinegar, water, sweetener, and garlic together in a small jar. Shake until blended. When beets are done, drain and pour balsamic vinegar mixture over them. Stir in the fresh basil. Let cool.

Refrigerate, stirring beets every once in awhile, and serve later as desired. The longer these beets marinate, the more they soak up the delicious balsamic flavor.

Total calories per serving: 57 Fat: <1 grams
Carbohydrates: 13 grams Protein: 2 grams
Sodium: 71 milligrams Fiber: 2 grams

BORSCHT
(Serves 6)

Though there are many versions of borscht — the famous Eastern European soup — most are made with beef stock, bacon, or a huge dollop of sour cream on top. If you want a tart topping, you can try a spoonful of soy yogurt, or blend silken tofu with a bit of lemon, a small amount of oil, and some sugar using a hand blender. In this version of borscht, I have created a creamy base with the addition of a baked potato for a hearty dinner soup.

1/2 Tablespoon canola or olive oil
1 large onion, chopped
4 to 5 cloves garlic, minced or pressed
2 stalks celery, chopped
1 or 2 carrots, sliced
2 Tablespoons tomato paste
6 cups water or vegetable stock (or use a combination of the two)
1/2 Tablespoon fresh dill or 1/2 teaspoon dried dill
4 cups sliced beets
Salt and pepper to taste
1 potato, baked
Juice and zest of 1 lemon
1 to 2 Tablespoons granulated sweetener

Heat a large, heavy soup pot over medium heat. Add the oil and onion. Stir, reduce heat, cover, and sweat onions until they are translucent. Add garlic, celery, and carrots. Stir and cook for about 5 more minutes. Stir in the tomato paste. Mix well and continue to cook for another minute or two. Add the water or stock, dill, and beets. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to a simmer. Cover and cook for 15 minutes or until beets are tender. Add salt and pepper to taste.

In a medium bowl with a hand blender, or in a blender, purée the potato, lemon juice, zest, granulated sweetener, and approximately \BD cup soup liquid until smooth and creamy. Stir into the rest of the soup, and adjust salt and pepper seasoning. Serve topped with a dollop of plain soy yogurt or tofu-lemon mixture.

Total calories per serving: 118 Fat: 2 grams
Carbohydrates: 23 grams Protein: 3 grams
Sodium: 370 milligrams Fiber: 4.5 grams

Debra Daniels-Zeller is a freelance writer from Washington.