SPANISH VEGETARIAN COOKING MADE SIMPLE

By Habeeb Salloum

Not many culinary experts are aware that Spanish cuisine is primarily based on the dishes developed by the Moors in the Iberian Peninsula and, later, enhanced by Native American foods brought back from the Western Hemisphere after Columbus' voyage. Without these contributions to the kitchens of that land, the victuals of Spain would be poor indeed.

Traces of Phoenician, Greek, Roman, and Jewish food can be found in Spanish cuisine, but it was the Arabs who left the most profound and lasting legacy. During their 800 years in the Iberian Peninsula, they greatly popularized native edibles such as hazelnuts and olive oil, and brought in innumerable new fruits and vegetables. Today, a good number still carry their Arabic names. From among these, eggplants, in Spanish, berenjena, from the Arabic [badhinjan]; lemon - limon [laymun]; orange - naranja [naranj]; rice - arroz [al-ruzz]; saffron - azafran [al-za faran]; spinach - espinaca [isbanakh]; and sugar - azucar [sukkar], all essential in Spanish cooking, are leftovers from the Moorish kitchen.

To many, the Andalusian fields and gardens diffusing the smell of lemon, orange, and pomegranate flowers bring to mind the romantic days of the caliphs in Cordova; to others,

the Moors live in the taste of almonds, cinnamon, and lemon, the mainstays of Spanish desserts. Culinary historians believe that a great many Spanish dishes, such as the famous gazpacho and paella, are concoctions inherited from the Arabs.

The second most significant development in the Spanish kitchen happened after Columbus' voyage. The available food ingredients in the cuisine of Spain more than doubled, and this revolutionized not only the diet of the people of the Iberian Peninsula, but that of the whole world. All types of peppers and beans (except broad beans), corn, chocolate, peanuts, potatoes, tomatoes, vanilla, and every species of squash, are some of the foods brought by the Conquistadors from the New World. Many of these, like potatoes and tomatoes, became staples in the Spanish diet, and the others greatly enriched the tried and true dishes of the Peninsula.

Today, all these past influences have been instrumental in the development of modern Spanish cuisine. There are a number of things common to that country's kitchen. Garlic and olive oil, which impart an authentic and unique flavor to Spanish food, form the base of most cooking. Vegetables are usually slowly sautéed until tender, fast-fried, or combined in casseroles and slowly cooked. Four herbs: bay leaves, oregano, rosemary, and thyme, preferably fresh, are often employed in seasoning. Saffron is generally utilized in rice dishes. Breads are commonly used as binders, especially in soups and stuffings, and chocolate is an important ingredient in numerous sweets. Pulverized nuts are often utilized to flavor sauces, and dried legumes such as chickpeas, lentils, and numerous types of beans are favored in many dishes.

Even though meat, poultry, and seafood are the mainstay of Spanish cuisine, in the country's larder there is a host of vegetarian dishes. When a number are combined to make a vegetarian meal, they produce a world of gourmet ecstasy. From the repertoire of Spanish vegetable dishes, I have chosen and simplified the following recipes.

EGGPLANT CAVIAR - CAVIAR DE BERENJENA
(Serves 6)

1 eggplant (about 1 pound)
2 cloves garlic, crushed
4 Tablespoons onion, finely chopped
2 Tablespoons olive oil
2 Tablespoons tomato paste
1 Tablespoon vinegar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
1/8 teaspoon cayenne

Roast eggplant in a 375 degree oven until the skin darkens and becomes crisp, then remove and allow to cool.

Peel eggplant, then mash in a mixing bowl. Add remaining ingredients and thoroughly mix. Place on a platter and chill. Serve as an appetizer or side dish.

Total calories per serving: 94
Fat: 9 grams

LIMA BEAN APPETIZER - JUDIAS ALINADAS
(Serves 8)

4 cups cooked green lima beans
1 medium sweet pepper, finely chopped
4 Tablespoons parsley, finely chopped
4 Tablespoons green onions, finely chopped
2 Tablespoons olive oil
4 Tablespoons lemon juice
1 clove garlic, crushed
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon thyme
1/2 teaspoon pepper

Combine beans, sweet pepper, parsley and green onions in a salad bowl and set aside.

Mix remaining ingredients, then pour over vegetables. Toss and serve immediately.

Variation: Cooked chickpeas or lentils can be substituted for the lima beans.

Total calories per serving: 131
Fat: 4 grams

WHITE GARLIC SOUP - SOPA DE AJO BLANCO
(Serves 6)

1/4 loaf bread, crust removed
4 cups water
3/4 cup pulverized blanched almonds
6 cloves garlic, crushed
2 Tablespoons olive oil
3 Tablespoons vinegar
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 pound seedless white grapes

Place bread and water in a bowl and allow to soak for 2 minutes. Transfer bowl contents to a food processor, then add remaining ingredients, except grapes. Process for a few moments, then transfer to a serving bowl. Chill and serve garnished with the grapes.

Total calories per serving: 217
Fat: 14 grams

PICKLED EGGPLANT - BERENJENA EN ESCABECHE
(Serves 8)

1 pound very small eggplants
1/2 cup vinegar
4 cloves garlic, crushed
2 Tablespoons olive oil
1-1/2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon cumin
1/2 teaspoon pepper
1/4 teaspoon chili powder
1/2 cup water

Place eggplants in a pot and cover with water. Bring to boil and cover. Cook over medium heat for 10 minutes. Drain and place in a glass or Pyrex utensil, then allow to cool.

Combine remaining ingredients and pour over eggplants. Add water to cover eggplants, if needed. Allow to stand for 3 days before serving.

Total calories per serving: 48
Fat: 4 grams

ESCAROLE SALAD - ENSALADA A LA ALMORAINA
(Serves 6)

1 large head escarole, washed and chopped
1-1/2 cups stewed tomatoes
3 Tablespoons olive oil
4 Tablespoons vinegar
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 teaspoon cumin
1 teaspoon paprika
1/2 teaspoon thyme
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
Dozen pitted black olives

Place escarole in a salad bowl and set aside.

Combine remaining ingredients, except olives, and pour over the escarole. Thoroughly mix, then decorate with olives and serve.

Total calories per serving: 94
Fat: 9 grams

CHICKPEAS AND BROAD BEAN STEW - GARBANZO Y HABAS A LA ANDALUZA
(Serves 6)

2 Tablespoons olive oil
2 medium onions, chopped
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1/2 small hot pepper, finely chopped
2 Tablespoons fresh coriander leaves, finely chopped
4 medium tomatoes, finely chopped
2 cups cooked chickpeas
2 cups fresh or frozen broad beans
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
1/2 teaspoon cumin
A few threads or pinch of pure saffron
2 cups water

Heat oil in a saucepan, then sauté onions, garlic and hot pepper over medium heat for 12 minutes. Add coriander and tomatoes, then stir-fry for another 8 minutes. Stir in remaining ingredients and bring to boil. Cover and cook over medium heat for 40 minutes, checking once in a while and adding more water if necessary. Serve hot or cold.

Total calories per serving: 226
Fat: 6 grams

TOMATO RICE - ARROZ DE TOMATE
(Serves 6)

2 Tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 cup rice
2 cups stewed tomatoes
1 cup water
1 small sweet pepper, finely chopped
1 teaspoon basil
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
1/8 teaspoon cayenne

Heat oil in frying pan, then sauté onions and garlic over medium heat for 12 minutes. Add rice and stir-fry for another 2 minutes. Stir in remaining ingredients and bring to boil. Cover and cook over medium heat for 25 minutes. Turn heat off and allow to cook in own steam for another 30 minutes. Serve hot.

Total calories per serving: 177
Fat: 5 grams

VEGETARIAN PAELLA - PAELLA VEGETARIANA
(Serves 8)

2 Tablespoons oil
2 medium onions, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
1-1/2 cups rice
3-1/2 cups water
1 cup fresh or frozen peas
1/2 cup chopped green olives
1 medium sweet pepper, finely chopped
1 teaspoon oregano
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
A few threads or pinch of pure saffron
1 cup lightly fried sliced mushrooms
1 cup asparagus, chopped
1/2 cup toasted blanched almonds

Pre-heat oven to 400 degrees. Heat oil in a frying pan, then sauté onions and garlic over medium heat for 12 minutes. Add rice and stir-fry for another 2 minutes. Transfer frying pan contents to a 9- x 13-inch Pyrex dish. Stir in water, peas, olives, sweet pepper, oregano, salt, pepper, and saffron, then cover. Bake in oven for 30 minutes.

Combine mushrooms, asparagus and almonds, then spread evenly over top. Re-cover and bake for a further 25 minute or until rice is well-cooked. Serve hot from pan.

Total calories per serving: 244
Fat: 9 grams

Habeeb Salloum is a freelance writer from Ontario, Canada.