Vegetable Sushi Renaissance

By Hannah Kaminsky

Vegetable sushi isn't what it used to be. Looking back on the limp, thin cucumber rolls of yore, that's a very good thing indeed. No one misses the obligatory meatless option, stripped of flavor, excitement, and appreciable nutrition. Innovative plant-based is finally breathing new life into sushi bars globally, raising the art to entirely new culinary heights.

It's a common misconception that sushi necessarily contains fish; in fact, the word itself simply refers to the vinegared rice creating the foundation of all these unique creations. It came about as a method of preservation, wrapping morsels in these edible packages to prevent spoilage. Dating back to the samurai era, this is all ancient history that western countries are still working to catch up with. Simple maki (cut sushi rolls) and nigiri (oval mounds of rice with toppings) are well understood, but additional formats lack that same recognition. While we're expanding the boundaries of what sushi should contain, we might as well appreciate the wider range of ways sushi can take shape, too.

Lacquered with a glossy sweet and savory sauce, slender Japanese eggplants make a convincing dupe for grilled eels. Alluring crosshatches sliced through the skin create the same visual impact, while the meltingly tender bite of this baked version drives the full experience home. Perched on top of gently packed rectangles of rice, these classic nigiri are perennial crowd-pleasers for good reason.

Watermelon may sound like an inauspicious start to a fish alternative, but suspend your disbelief long enough to try these ruby red cubes of spicy poke. Paired with the crunch of julienned cucumbers, the contrast between hot and cool, supple and crisp will keep you coming back for more. These morsels are wrapped in conical temaki (single-serving hand rolls), meant to be enjoyed as they're assembled at the table.

Caviar is synonymous with luxury, but this version is one you can afford every day of the week. Chia seeds soak in an oceanic brine to replicate the taste of salty fish eggs. Gunkan, aka "battleship" nigiri, sail away into bold new culinary waters with this precious cargo in tow. Wear your life preserver because you just may go overboard when you realize it's entirely plant-based.

California rolls are the gateway sushi for many westerners, presenting accessible, affordable ingredients in a novel package. It's time we shake up that routine. Temari, which are round sushi balls, move the spicy "crab" salad made of shredded enoki mushrooms into the center for a delightful surprise inside. Thinly sliced cucumbers and buttery avocado adorn the tops, making each sphere as pretty as an edible present.

Dessert sushi can take many forms, often interpreting the title very loosely, making it more of a visual pun than anything else. In the case of sweet dragon maki, you'll get the full sushi experience, minus the nori. Square rice paper wraps everything up instead, using naturally sweet fruits to forgo the need to add any other forms of organic sugar. Vegan cream cheese adds richness to this light final course, perfect for dipping in chocolate or caramel sauce if you need an extra sweet finish. All told though, such a show-stopping grand finale needs no additional garnishes to shine.

Basic Sushi Rice
(Makes about 2 cups cooked rice)

1 cup dry sushi rice
1½ cups water
1 Tablespoon rice vinegar
1 teaspoon organic granulated sugar
1/8 teaspoon salt

Rinse rice in a fine mesh sieve until the water runs clear. Transfer to a medium saucepan and add water. Bring rice to a boil over medium heat; immediately turn heat to low, and cover. Cook for 10 minutes, remove from heat, and let sit, covered, for 15 minutes.

In a small bowl, mix together the vinegar, sugar, and salt and add it to the rice. Gently fold with a spatula to incorporate. Let sit at room temperature for about 15 minutes longer, until just warm to the touch, before using to make sushi.

Calories per 1/2-cup serving: 164 Fat: 0 grams
Carbohydrates: 37 grams Protein: 3 grams
Sodium: 75 milligrams Fiber: 1 gram

Eggplant Unagi Nigiri
(Makes 14-16 pieces)

1/4 cup reduced-sodium soy sauce
1/4 cup brown rice syrup
1/4 cup mirin
2 medium Japanese eggplants
1 batch basic sushi rice

In a small saucepan over medium-low heat, combine the soy sauce, brown rice syrup, and mirin. Bring to a boil and then reduce the heat to low, keeping the mixture at a gentle simmer. Cook for about 5 minutes, until thickened slightly. Let the unagi sauce cool.

Slice the eggplants in half lengthwise. Use a sharp knife to slice crosshatches through the skin and place on a lightly oiled baking sheet with the skin side up.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Bake for 5 minutes, baste with unagi sauce, and bake for another 5 minutes. Baste once more and cook for a final 4-6 minutes, until fork-tender and lightly caramelized. Cut into 2 1/2-inch-long pieces.

To assemble the nigiri, use lightly moistened hands to take about 2 Tablespoons of rice at a time and gently press it into a rectangle shape. Top each rectangle with a piece of marinated eggplant and repeat until all components are used up.

Cook's Note: Mirin is a sweetened Japanese rice wine; sake can be used as a substitute. For a non-alcoholic option, use mushroom stock.

Total calories per piece: 93 Fat: <1 gram
Carbohydrates: 21 grams Protein: 1 gram
Sodium: 164 milligrams Fiber: 1 gram

Spicy Tu-Not Temaki
(Makes 10 pieces)

1/2 cup mushroom stock
2 Tablespoons reduced-sodium soy sauce
1 Tablespoon sauerkraut brine
1 Tablespoon instant wakame (seaweed) flakes
1 1/2 teaspoons rice vinegar
1 teaspoon chickpea or white miso paste
1/4 teaspoon garlic powder
3/4 pound seedless watermelon, finely diced
1-2 teaspoons sriracha
5 sheets nori, cut in half
1 batch basic sushi rice
1/2 seedless English cucumber, shredded

In a small saucepan, combine mushroom stock, soy sauce, sauerkraut brine, wakame, vinegar, miso, garlic powder, and watermelon. Set over medium-low heat and bring to a gentle simmer. Cook for about 15 minutes, until the melon seems slightly translucent. Turn off the heat, transfer to a large bowl, and chill before proceeding.

Once cooled, drain any excess liquid. Add sriracha to taste and toss to combine.

To assemble, place one piece of nori with the shiny side down and cover the left third with a thin layer of sushi rice. Place shredded cucumber and a spoonful of spicy watermelon tuna vertically across middle of the rice.

Fold the bottom left corner of nori over and begin rolling into a cone shape. Keep rolling until a cone shape is formed. Lightly moisten the edge of the nori to seal, placing it with the seam side down on a plate. Repeat with the remaining ingredients.

Cook's Note: If you're struggling to make a cone shape, you can cut the nori into quarters instead, then place the rice and filling in the center, and fold up the sides like a taco.

Total calories per piece: 82 Fat: <1 gram
Carbohydrates: 18 grams Protein: 2 grams
Sodium: 195 milligrams Fiber: <1 gram

Chia Caviar Gunkan
(Makes about 12 pieces)

1 small square kombu (seaweed)
1 Tablespoon reduced-sodium soy sauce
2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar
1 teaspoon olive oil
3/4 cup mushroom stock
1/4 cup chia seeds
4 sheets nori
1 batch basic sushi rice
1 scallion, thinly sliced

In a small saucepan over medium-low heat, combine the kombu, soy sauce, balsamic vinegar, olive oil, and mushroom stock. Bring to a boil and then reduce the heat to low. Sprinkle in the chia seeds while stirring continuously, keeping the mixture at a gentle simmer. Cook for about 5 minutes, until the chia seeds have absorbed all the liquid. Let cool; compost, save for another use, or discard the kombu.

To assemble the gunkan, cut each sheet of nori into 3 long strips. Lightly moisten hands, take about 2 heaping Tablespoons of rice at a time, and gently press it into a rectangle shape. Wrap each piece of rice with one strip of nori, making sure it goes slightly above the rice.

Spoon chia caviar on top, covering the surface of the rice. Top with a pinch of sliced scallions. Repeat until all components are used up.

Cook's Note: Cooked kombu can be a tasty addition to salads, rice bowls, soups, and stews.

Total calories per piece: 81 Fat: 2 grams
Carbohydrates: 14 grams Protein: 2 grams
Sodium: 76 milligrams Fiber: 1 gram

California Temari
(Makes 6-8 pieces)

8 ounces enoki mushrooms
1 scallion, thinly sliced
1 1/2 teaspoons reduced-sodium soy sauce
1 1/2 teaspoons lemon juice
1 teaspoon nutritional yeast
1/4 teaspoon garlic powder
1/4 teaspoon onion powder
1/4 teaspoon celery seeds
2 Tablespoons vegan mayonnaise
1/2 seedless English cucumber, thinly sliced
1 ripe avocado, thinly sliced
1 batch basic sushi rice
1-2 Tablespoons toasted sesame seeds

Break apart the enoki mushrooms into small clusters and roughly chop into 1/2- to 1-inch pieces. Place in a bowl along with the scallion, soy sauce, lemon juice, nutritional yeast, garlic and onion powder, celery seeds, and vegan mayonnaise. Stir vigorously to combine.

To assemble, start by placing a sheet of plastic wrap over a small bowl. Arrange sliced cucumber and avocado on top. Add about 3 Tablespoons of sushi rice over the vegetables and press it out into an even sheet that completely covers the toppings. Spoon roughly 1 Tablespoon of the enoki "crab" salad into the center.

Bring together the edges of the plastic wrap to gather the sushi into a compact ball. Use your hands to squeeze and shape it as round as possible, making sure the "crab" filling is completely enclosed.

Remove the plastic wrap and place the sushi ball on a plate. Sprinkle each with a pinch of sesame seeds. Repeat with the remaining ingredients.

Cook's Note: For variety, replace the vegan mayonnaise with plain, unsweetened vegan yogurt.

Total calories per piece: 209 Fat: 9 grams
Carbohydrates: 31 grams Protein: 4 grams
Sodium: 72 milligrams Fiber: 4 grams

Sweet Dragon Maki
(Makes 4 rolls, 6-8 pieces each)

4 square sheets rice paper
1 batch basic sushi rice
1/2 cup vegan cream cheese, at room temperature
1 medium mango, peeled, pitted, and cut into thin strips
1/2 cup diced strawberries
4 kiwis, peeled and thinly sliced

Line a bamboo mat (found with kitchen tools in most Asian markets) with plastic wrap and place one sheet of rice paper on top. There's no need to moisten it in advance, as it will soften while you work.

Top the bottom third of the rice paper with about 1/2 cup of the sushi rice, pressing it out into a thin, even layer. Spread about 2 Tablespoons of cream cheese down the center, topped by 1/4 of the mango and 2 Tablespoons of diced strawberries. Let stand for 5 minutes until the rice paper is pliable and will bend easily without cracking.

Start rolling the rice paper over the filling, starting from the bottom, using the bamboo mat to help squeeze it firmly together. Continue until you get to the top and seal the edge with a small amount of water.

Arrange 1 thinly sliced kiwi over the top in overlapping rounds. Squeeze tightly to adhere and smoothly wrap around the surface.

Slice into 6-8 pieces with a very sharp knife. Transfer to a plate and repeat with the remaining ingredients.

Cook's Note: Serve as is, or with a side of caramel sauce or chocolate sauce for dipping.

Total calories per piece: 61 Fat: 1 gram
Carbohydrates: 11 grams Protein: 1 gram
Sodium: 26 milligrams Fiber: 1 gram

Hannah Kaminsky has been happily vegan for over 20 years, but would have made the switch sooner if not for the temptation of sushi! Passionate about big flavors and simple techniques, they're a plant-based food photographer, recipe developer, and ghost writer in Austin, TX.